Cape Coast, Elmina, and Kakum National Park

March 6th

We had a long weekend off from school in late February-- and missed a travel opportunity because my group couldn't make decisions. And being stir-crazy, I decided to jet off on my own to Cape Coast avoiding coordinating with anyone else on this long weekend. I had wanted to push myself to be on my own, putting myself in the position to talk to more locals and get around without help. And I just wanted to do things on my own agenda.

After thoroughly checking the STC online bus schedule through the week, I arrived at the bus station in Accra at 6am on Saturday only to find out that the online schedule was wrong. I waited 3 more hours in the station for the bus to Cape Coast. The ride was almost 4 hours with traffic from Accra, a comfortable A/C and cushy leather seats that reclined. The rumor I had heard said that the buses ran on limited capacity for COVID, but in practice, this was false. 

I hopped a cab on arrival to my hotel which sat on top of a dusty steep hill overlooking the small city. The road was pot-holed, but it didn't discourage low-clearance cars from scuttling up to the hilltop. The building was nice and clean. I had 2 twins beds put together and a fan (this functioned little with the power outage one night during my stay). I walked down into the humid streets to Cape Coast Castle only 10 minutes walk away on the water. I stopped at Baobab restaurant and had a tofu sandwich and bissap. The chef had her little girl there singing "Obruni, how are you? I'm fine, and you? I'm fine too!"

The castle was ominous and brilliantly white. Knowing just some of the history of the buildings sobered me. It had been used as a prison for Africans that would be transported to the Americas and elsewhere. The cameras and Joy News crew reminded me that March 6th was Ghanaian Independence Day. I did a small tour through the tunnels with tourists, both Ghanaian and international. 

From the castle I walked a bit up to where I though the crocodile pond at Han's Boathouse would be. I was wrong. I got picked up by a cab driver that had scars all over his arms and face. He kindly told me he would be willing to stop by my place of stay tonight. I had the wrong location on my google maps and was convinced i was in a 'Taken' kidnapping situation. 

The pond was really lovely. My large Club beer really relaxed me. I saw a few big boys gliding in the water. They get fed frozen chickens. 

The following day I visited Kakum and did the canopy walk some 50 meters above the trees. It's a tight-rope of sorts, but has netting on the sides the enclose you and actually feels quite safe once you get going. I had asked several times how often the structure was assessed and the guide said everyday...... which was the answer I expected, but didn't so much believe. 

Later that day I went to Elmina Castle and saw more of the quarters in which the slave traders lived. I was pleasantly surprised at the number of Ghanaian tourists. My driver came with me on the tour and I had to take photos of him in various poses! But then an actual photographer took photos of me, so maybe it was good karma. 

I met up with my guitar teacher's friend Ogash. He got his name because that it what he yelled out when his school teachers beat him on his behind. It stuck with him and he grew to love hi name over time. He gave me more insight into the history and local life.  I got a Club, and bought him and his friend Linda some non-alcoholic beverages. He volunteers teaching girls coding he said. I got to see his childhood home and snapped some pics with him and Linda. He also told me almost married his blood sister, not knowing all of the children his father had fathered. 

The rest of the week back in Accra I had this feeling... maybe like empowerment, or pride for going out on my own and having all these new and interesting experiences and learnings that were just for me and maybe the other people I met in Cape Coast.